In November, there are more sheep than tourists on the sun island. The beaches may be disappointing at this time, but the long-distance hiking path through the mountains offers great scenery and exhilarating views.
For more Mallorca photos, see http://westwards.typepad.com/photos/mallorca_201011
Two lone tourists are sitting in the small strand bar sipping their café con leche. Everything else is closed in Sant Elm, reputedly a stronghold of Swiss holiday makers. But the barkeeper refills our water bottles, and we continue our way into even lonelier mountains.
Indeed, we only find an open shop two days later, and over the next few days only encounter a few farm workers and locals picking mushrooms, carrying baskets or paper bags. The rare tourists can be identified by their daypacks and walking sticks.
The first stretch of the GR 221, or Ruta de Pedra en Sec hiking path, is not marked at all. From Port d’Andratx until Estellencs, there is no shop and almost no water, and in spite of GPS navigation we sometimes miss the right path.
But the strenuous hiking is easily compensated for: From the mountain ridges above Sant Elm there are wonderful views towards the rocky island of Sa Dragonera. Later, we pass a former Trappist monastery secluded in an almost inaccessible valley and climb to isolated mountain passes of sheer rocks and wild rosemary.
